The Bugaboo Spires lie within the Purcell Mountain Range of British Columbia are easily considered Canada’s most famous Alpine Climbing destination and attract climbers from around the world. The rock of the main Spires consists of coarse granite which offers excellent friction and crack climbing. Accessing all the main Spires require glacier travel, sometimes becoming complex later in the summer season.
The word “Bugaboo” derived from a term used by early ill-fated European gold rush prospectors as “Dead-End”.
The first climbers arrived in 1910 led by the renowned Austrian Guide Conrad Kain. During his 6 trips to the area, he made first ascents of many of the Spires, his most difficult and famous being the Kain route up Bugaboo Spire. Given today’s luxuries of easy access, plush huts and modern equipment, it’s hard to imagine the level of commitment, sense of adventure and speed, stamina and pure determination Kain and his clients had.
The Bugaboos offer something for everyone: Good hiking and scenery for Backpackers and excellent scrambling, glacier walks and ridge traverses for those into light mountaineering. There is single pitch top rope climbing and multipitch cragging but most climbers come to attempt a “Spire”… and for the elite there are even full on 1000m Big Walls.
The question remains…”Can you climb a Spire?’ If you are fit, have a senses of adventure and the desire, and some basic climbing experience, the answer is Yes! The Bugaboos are truly a special place that should not be missed!